So Long to Slow Tiling
There’s a new tile floor that goes down easily, eliminating a tedious installation process.
Goodbye to buckets of sticky mastic and floor levelers. Installing ceramic tiles now is as easy as—and similar to—putting down an interlocking wood-look laminate floor. Using tiles from Edge, we installed a snap-together floor that floats freely over a thin, resilient underlayment. Other manufacturers are making similar floors with tongue-and-groove edges The groove accommodates the grout applied from a pressurize can. You can choose from porcelain, marble, and granite styles and achieve a fresh, high-end style for your room in one day. The materials can be used in most places in your home’s interior, except showers. Although manufacturers recommend mopping up liquid spills quickly in kitchens or baths, the makers of Edge say their testing proved the fiber-board backing on their tiles can withstand quite a bit of moisture.
Tools: scissors, circular saw, jigsaw (if needed), Edge saw glades, sponge, and floor wipes Materials: tiles, underlayment, tape, threshold moldings, and groutClear the room. Start with a clean, stable floor that’s relatively flat (there is an allowance for about 3/16-inch variation). Tile can be installed over plywood, particle board, or other engineered wood sheets, or vinyl, ceramic, or stone. Remove the room’s base trim so tiles can be placed within 1/4 inch of the wall.Plan the layout. Determine how to arrange the tile for the best look. Lay a row of tiles out in both directions. Plan cuts in the most inconspicuous places possible.
Roll out the underlayment. Cover the floor with underlayment, cutting to fit with scissors and taping all seams with the tape provided.Install threshold tracks. The two-piece threshold includes a base track and a snap-in top in the tile color. Tracks can be cut to fit and should be screwed into place before laying down tiles.Be ready to cut. The Edge saw-blade kit includes diamond-tip blades for a circular saw and a jigsaw. These blades cut smoothly and are more convenient than wet saws typically used in tile installations.
Lay the Tile. Beginning in a corner, set the two-tile Edge panel in place with the tongue sides facing the walls. Leave a 1/4-inch space between tiles and walls or cabinets around the floor’s perimeter, which allows for expansion and contraction. Base trim will cover this space. To join tiles, slip tongues into grooves at a slight downward angle, dropping them flat and forward into place. Cut some two-tile panels in half and start every other row with a single tile. This staggers the joints for a stronger floor. The last pieces to snap into place are the tops of the thresholds.
Work with awkward small pieces. Use the zigsaw blade to cut small tile pieces or odd angles. Because these pieces can’t be locked into place, use grout to glue them down.
Grout. Insert the grout can’s tip into the grout gap and press down to start the flow. The pressurized material comes out faster than it would from a standard caulk gun. Application may take some practice to fill the gap with a minimum of excess material. Work in 3x3-feet sections, and use a damp sponge to wipe away excess. If any grout residue is left, remove it with floor wipes. 
Tools: scissors, circular saw, jigsaw (if needed), Edge saw glades, sponge, and floor wipes Materials: tiles, underlayment, tape, threshold moldings, and groutClear the room. Start with a clean, stable floor that’s relatively flat (there is an allowance for about 3/16-inch variation). Tile can be installed over plywood, particle board, or other engineered wood sheets, or vinyl, ceramic, or stone. Remove the room’s base trim so tiles can be placed within 1/4 inch of the wall.Plan the layout. Determine how to arrange the tile for the best look. Lay a row of tiles out in both directions. Plan cuts in the most inconspicuous places possible.
Lay the Tile. Beginning in a corner, set the two-tile Edge panel in place with the tongue sides facing the walls. Leave a 1/4-inch space between tiles and walls or cabinets around the floor’s perimeter, which allows for expansion and contraction. Base trim will cover this space. To join tiles, slip tongues into grooves at a slight downward angle, dropping them flat and forward into place. Cut some two-tile panels in half and start every other row with a single tile. This staggers the joints for a stronger floor. The last pieces to snap into place are the tops of the thresholds.
Work with awkward small pieces. Use the zigsaw blade to cut small tile pieces or odd angles. Because these pieces can’t be locked into place, use grout to glue them down.
Grout. Insert the grout can’s tip into the grout gap and press down to start the flow. The pressurized material comes out faster than it would from a standard caulk gun. Application may take some practice to fill the gap with a minimum of excess material. Work in 3x3-feet sections, and use a damp sponge to wipe away excess. If any grout residue is left, remove it with floor wipes. 
Copyright 2006 by Better Homes and Gardens Magazine. All rights reserved.
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